Christmas in Delhi

On Tuesday we went to the Railway Museum in Delhi. Our friend from Bhutan joined us before her flight out to the UK. The three kids climbed up on all the trains, ranging from 1895 to 1974. All of us rode the "toy train" around the museum grounds full of school children. One treat was watching wild parrots nesting in a tree.

still here!

Holiday Greetings to all! Well, we have been busy with the end of the school year in Bhutan-which finally ended on December 18th. We had a couple of school picnics to say farewell to Class 12 as well as some teachers who will return to the US. The highlights of the last few months have been a combination of new friends, exploring around Thimphu Town (I love saying that) and wrapping up the school year. Henry was "Runner Up" in the Junior section of the 1st Judo Tournament in Bhutan on December 12th. He made the national news and a special segment on BBS (Bhutan Broadcasting Service). His good friend, Ulughbek from Uzbekistan, won the tournament on his birthday so Henry was happy for him. Emma has made a few good friends who take her shopping and around town. We have become comfortable with getting around, driving among cows, people and dogs darting out into streets, and cooking the many types of datses. (Datse means cheese and everything in Bhutan is cooked with datse. There is kewa datse-with potatoes; ema datse-with chiles; shamu datse-with mushrooms and asparagus datse.) Emma gets teased often for having a name that means "chile." And most spell her name "Ema." We recently rented a house outside of Thimphu-about 10 miles west in the Begana valley near the Tango and Cherry Monasteries. The valley is beautiful an we often have cows or horses in our yard. There is a river below that we can hear from the house and the smell of bukaris (wood burning stoves)-the main source of heat. Our water is often frozen in the mornings-especially since winter has arrived. Henry and Emma build bonfires often and our neighbors and friends come to visit. the two neighbor dogs, Gnarly and Bonzo, come every day looking for food and scraps. I think they like us because we know that they are carnivores (most dogs and cats are fed rice). Our home is quiet and peaceful. Our transitions to December 2010 in Asia have been very up and very down. I think this is why I have not posted so much (plus very intermittent internet). Most young people in Thimphu think Henry is Justin Bieber and they just don't know what to think about Emma's blond hair. Most tourists are of retired age so we get stares every day, whether we are walking or driving, by locals seeing young people. I don't mind too much but the kids are sensitive to this. They are fine now but every once in a while they get annoyed. Plus, the Bhutanese are not taught tolerance or much about other cultures so they are not as PC as where we come from in the US. Even though we have had some "downs," Bhutan has a lot to offer. Emma and Henry can walk to town and meet friends, shop and eat safely without any worries. Our new village grows many vegetables that we can use any time. If we get stranded, we know that someone will stop to help us or give us a lift. The water is so pure-straight from a himalayan spring blessed by many buddhist lamas and stories. On the hill across from our home, is a forest where tigers, bear, leopards and grey langurs live-naturally in their own habitat. The air is clean, the veggies are fresh and organic and the life is simple. Friends are plentiful and the cost of living is very manageable-as long as you don't want anything modern or from outside the country. (We finally bought a microwave that cost $150 US but would have been about $40 in the US).

Now that we are in Delhi (we arrived on Mon. Dec. 20th), we can see the pollution and extent of our isolation in Bhutan. Bhutan is definitely modern and has many westernized things, but when we were in a Delhi mall yesterday, the level of modernization hit us. I wouldn't describe the feeling as culture shock-it was just an intense awareness of the clean air, skies without airplanes (can you imagine?), fresh food, and feeling of simpleness. In Delhi, I only need one blanket on the bed. In Bhutan, I have five (the really thick fuzzy blankets) to make me feel comfortable. The Delhi smog is unbelievable. The air is yellow and stings one's face and throat while breathing. I don't remember being bothered so much during past visits, so I'm thinking that we have been spoiled by the pristine himalayan air.

Of-course, Henry's smile after seeing McDonald's was precious and I have to admit the ketchup was good (Bhutan ketchup is okay). Emma was thrilled to be in a mall with actual shops-not the "Daka shops" that we have in Bhutan (clothes from the Bangladesh factories). And we saw an actual movie in a movie theatre with popcorn.

Thimphu Drubchen Sept 13, 2010

Hungtso Tashigang Gompa-Aug 2010

Thimphu Drubchen Sept 13, 2010

Dochola hike and picnic

A few weeks ago, I was invited to go on a hike and picnic to Dochola- a place of temple and 108 chortens (stupas). I was invited by the Dzongka loppons (Dzongka teachers) from our school and interestingly enough, none of them could speak much English. I was along for the ride and happy to have an "adult day" out of Thimphu (Even though Thimphu is only 40,000 people, it is still "urban"). On the way to Dochola, we stopped and turned off onto a very 4-wheel drive road with an incredible grade. I don't think the driver had used the 4 wheel drive before and we progressed on the road to get stuck at a very steep and very muddy road. After several stops and rocks placed behind wheels and me trying to explain that the 4 wheel drive had to be turned on, I decided to walk. The road was up,up and up. My friends from the trip to Tibet could sympathize with the road. I don't usually get nervous on such roads but with an inexperienced driver and a language barrier, I had to just hike and hope they would follow or figure out the land cruiser (the old style version). Eventually, they caught up with me-in the vehicle. When they saw the next hill and close turns around mountain bends that dropped off, they parked the vehicle and decided to join me on the trail. The monastery was built in the 1700's and is rarely visited (by the looks of the road and the monks when we arrived). The gompa is inhabited by many monks and nuns. There are several retreat houses on the mountain ridge. We visited each temple, made offerings and then walked around the beautiful garden grounds. I was still wondering about the road back and if we were still going to Dochola. We took several photos and then walked back to the vehicle. We had some tea and snacks (no matter where you go and how far from civilization, there is still always a thermos of hot tea. We drove back down. Honestly, I would have preferred to hike back down. The road was no more than 10 ft wide-and as I mentioned, the drop-offs and the very deep mud.

We stopped at the creek crossing and I thought there was another problem but the loppons got out and washed the land cruiser-just like a car wash. We finally made it back to the main road (which has some issues itself) and started back up another mountain to Dochola. We reached the top, walked around the 108 chortens and then had a picnic lunch in the grassy area. While we ate, a huge cloud of fog surrounded us and the area. The fog was very beautiful and a welcomed mist after hiking up to Hungtso Tashigang Gompa. Some stray dogs patiently watched us eat as they knew they would get the left overs. Everyone was full, even the dogs, by the time we headed back to Thimphu. The day was a nice break from work and the busy-ness of Thimphu.

Thimphu Drubchen

Today was the "Thimphu Drubchen" at the Dzong (monastery/temple) courtyard. We arrived around 9:30 and waited with all the locals and a few tourists for the blessings of the Palden Lhamo dance. This was the 300th year of uninterrupted Drubchens. Many Lamas, including the Je Khenpo, monks and lay persons watched the negativities be invited and subdued for the upcoming year. The sun was out and quite warm during the ceremony. This dance is the official ceremony. The Thimphu Tsechu is more of the entertainment version where photography and video is allowed. Emma, Henry and I attended in our full Bhutanese attire- a requirement for entry. We will go to watch the Thimphu Tsechu later this week at the Dzong amphitheatre. Even though we were told, "no photographs," several people were taking pictures on phones-so I did get a few. I'll post once I find my iPhone USB cord (must be with Emma or Henry).

September 12, 2010

August 15, 2010

after many days of trying to figure out what was going on with my internet connection, i finally am back online. many emails and a lot to catch up on. we are at the "past seven week" mark of living in bhutan. since Thimphu only has about 40,000 residents, we have met many people and are navigating pretty well. last week was a big week as His Majesty the King spent several hours at the school we are at. The school and students spent six days preparing for HM's visit. HM graciously spoke to each class for long periods of time. He was in Emma's class for over an hour and then he watched the "advanced judo class" demonstrate their most recent moves. Since Henry is in he advanced judo, both Emma and Henry got to interact with HM personally. His presence is very genuine and caring toward the young people of Bhutan. I hope Emma and Henry appreciate their "opportunity of a lifetime" in meeting HM. (Everyone here refers to His Majesty as "HM").

teaching in bhutan

teaching here has been quite an experience already. the kids are in school and enjoying meeting new friends and being so far ahead in subjects like english and math. emma is taking biology, physics and chemistry-this is different and both kids are taking history (bhutanese history). instead of the students switching classes, the teachers move around from class to class and the students stay in the same room. i am the class teacher for class 11 science. there are "streams"-science, commerce and arts. science is for the highest level kids and arts is the lowest. i teach class 10, 11 science and 12 science. after school, i run the nature club which consists of hiking up the mountain and gardening on the campus. last thursday, we found five different species of mushrooms on our short hike. the students range in age from 14 to 19. it doesn't really matter what age the student is-they are placed in their class level. for example, an 18 year old can be in class 8 if that is the appropriate level for him or her.

all the students wear the required uniforms and appearance is taken very seriously in bhutan. hair must be neat and not "jazzy", shoes must be polished and rabneys and kachus must be used during assembly.

most of the students are very pleasant and share the same strife that high schoolers in the US face-oppression and misunderstanding from adults. but the students here are much more respectful and helpful. they get in trouble for many things-this makes me cringe several times a day. of-course, i just want to teach and i'm not that concerned with hair that is too "jazzy" or mud that is on shoes.

finding gems in bhutan

part of living in a new place is finding the "gems" that help life become more comfortable and grounded. by grounded i mean the feeling of belonging and having a sense of roots wherever you are. there was a moment riding in the back of an ancient toyota going through town to have my work permit interview when the town seemed different. the feeling was of a sudden notion that i was no longer a tourist but an actual inhabitant of the town (city) of thimphu. the tingle was from the energy emitted due to the fact that i would be living here for a year and that i could actually develop those ritualistic places and connections that i long for. this is where the gems come in to play. one gem is "seasons," the local pizzeria/italian restaurant that wikipedia raves about as well as locals and tourist company operators. one guide said that a tourist requested that he drive her to thimphu from paro (one hour away) every evening so that she could eat dinner at seasons. the kids and i finally went there and i have to say that the pizza is truly delicious and the pasta easily compares with dishes served in a seattle italian restaurant. if you sit on the outside porch, a friendly kitty will snuggle in your lap for the duration of your time there. my favorite is the cheeseless pizza. that's one gem. the most recent gem is a place called "dantak." it is out of the city and just east of where the school is. one has a feeling of entering a small village-far from a town although you are only about one mile from thimphu. this place is run by the indian army and provides food and limited supplies to the indian army stationed in bhutan. there is a "wet canteen" where you can buy the most fresh and delicious indian food for incredible prices. samosas are 4 rupees (about 10 cents) and a multigrain fresh loaf of bread is 15 rupees. we have eaten a full meal with extras and take homes for 91 rupees (for 4 people)-unheard of anywhere in thimphu. and the bread is the best i've had since being in asia. at the little grocery, you can buy large bags of dal beans, spices, fresh paneer and other things that keep the indian nationals happy. today, we brought home 10 samosas and 20 of the most amazing cookies. our closest gems are "shopper's store" and the general store. i was ecstatic to find bleach this week. our place is pretty clean by bhutanese standards but being a bit of a germaphobe makes me very pleased to use some bleach. nothing like a hint of bleach smell. at shoppers store we can get many japanese food items. for some reason the peanut m&m's make me happy -even though i don't like chocolate that much. the kids like to go shopping for things like one size popcorn that is pre-flavored (pepper, golden sizzle or chili) and japanese candies. the saturday market is pretty good although we didn't go this weekend. last weekend we bought a large bag of freshly picked chanterelle mushrooms for 120 Nu ( about $2.50). we made pasta and sauteed the mushrooms for the other american teachers. it was quite a night talking about the students and comparing educational standards to what we are used to in the states. i'm sure we will find other gems. emma found the pirated video shop yesterday. it's very funny teaching students who have all seen the movies that were just released in the US when there is no western movie theatre in the entire country. apparently, everyone keeps up on the movies through pirated movies. the other gems are people who help us find new places and things-shops where we can get supplies and foods.

catching up...

Well, I'm not sure what to write about-there are so many things: cooking; driving; market and teaching. school started last week. the new high school is still in the process of being constructed so the labs, swimming pool and other extras are not finished. the basketball court was finally completed on friday. henry took his ball on friday to play and at some point the ball accidentally went into the very fast himalayan river next to the school. emma and henry adjusted well during their first week. they both wore their bhutanese uniform of goh and kira. we go to our neighbors each morning to make sure the uniforms are put on properly. we have got the goh down pretty well but the kira is very difficult to get "perfect" as expected at morning assembly. the students are very respectful and i get many "good morning madam" throughout the day-even after lunch. the first day was funny since no one knew where my schedule was. eventually, i met each class and by tuesday i had my schedule set-until thursday when they decided to switch me to biology. so, today i start my class 11 and class 12 biology classes in addition to class 10 and class 11 english. in bhutan, the teachers go from class to class and the students stay in the same room for the entire day-except for tea break and lunch.

well, that's the catch up on school and i must run to get ready for today's classes. more later about life in general.

Takin Preserve

We drove up to the Takin preserve to see the National animal-the takin (pronounced t-/short o/-kin. The legend says that a great Master performed the miracle of combining the two animals-goat and deer to demonstrate his powers. We walked up a trail to see the takin late in the afternoon -during feeding time. The takin were originally in a "zoo" but then released because Bhutan did not want to keep the animals in captivity. But the takin still stick around and are able to be viewed at certain times of day. The road leading to the preserve goes up a large "hill" or mountain (since Thimphu is close to 8,000 ft) past a 15th century monastery and the valley where the Ministers of govrnment and Royal family reside. On the way up, we passed several Bhutanese mountain bikers. The road is just up at a steep grade-it's like Bhutan's version of a Tour de France climb. Luckily we were in a vehicle and able to drive to the top where the BBS (Bhutan broadcasting service) broadcasts from. The pinnacle is covered in prayer flags. We parked at the takin trail head and walked through a very green forest with a grassy floor and tall pines looming. Three extremely large deer were grazing (about the size of elk) and off in the distance we could see takin. From our perspective, the takin move like bears. One mama takin had a baby following closely behind, trying to nurse every chance he or she could get. There were about 10 to 12 in the group with only a couple of young takin close enough to see the "goat head" and deer body. We didn't hear any sounds from the animals. We also saw very small deer with antelope like antlers. On the way back to the car, we saw a group of children playing "world cup" soccer. Each child was rooting for a particular country wearing respective jerseys. They were all smiles and practicing a few english phrases with use-mainly "you're welcome." The view from the mountain was vast with the surrounding himalayan foothills and the city of Thimphu below. On a nearby hilltop is the giant Buddha in construction (engineered by the Japanese). Even though scaffolding surrounds the body, the statue glows in the sunlight.

Got our visa extensions today-yay!

Settled into our new home

Last Saturday, we moved into our new and final home in Thimphu. We live very close to town and within walking distance to most shops and the Memorial Chorten. Straight down the hill (across the Thimphu "expressway" and the through Harmony Square where the Thai temple is located) is the Swiss Bakery and Art Cafe. We went to the Swiss Bakery on our first day to Thimphu. Apparently, this cafe was THE place maybe ten or twenty years ago but not exactly the best place now. We had veggie sandwiches and Henry had a loaf of french bread. The bread actually was pretty good and I used it later to make garlic bread (as best as I could without an oven and a two burner propane stove). Next door to the Swiss Bakery is the Art Cafe-today's version of the old Swiss Bakery I 'm guessing. We were in good company with other ex-pats. The kids ordered panini and I had the Bhutanese fried rice-very good. The cakes and pastries looked authentic but we passed as the prices are pretty authentic too!

Our new home is a two-storied duplex (pronounced "Duplay" here ). We are in Bhutanese luxury-we even have someone to meet the trash. In fact, we can leave the can out at this place. The dump trucks have "donated by Japan" printed on the sides. Bhutan is trying to start a recycling or reduce campaign. We bought our "eco-Bhutan" bag at the farmer's market last Saturday. We have a sitting area, three bathrooms, dining table with chairs (we didn't have at the cottage) and wi-fi. Our neighbors are very lovely people who have helped in many ways, including giving a ride to the hospital for my "medical clearance" for the work permit to teach. The doctor smiled saying, "you look healthy" and signed the release.

Another happy characteristic of our new home is "Daisy", our neighbor's dog. She is six years old and very well cared for. She is a cross between a german shepherd and a Bhutanese mastiff. But she looks just like my childhood dog-Grendel. She has warmed up to us and we put a water bowl out the back door for her. She really liked licking the mackerel off the bowl after I made "crabby patties" (you know-from Sponge Bob) the other night.

Last week, we visited the school where I will be teaching and the kids will be attending. I just found out that I will be teaching English, Science and Commerce to Class 10 and 11. I will also be teaching some environmental education, specifically about insects. Monday, the kids and I went to walk the grounds to see what was there. We found huge holes made by long horned beetles in walnut trees. I mean huge-as in beetle holes that I have never seen the size of before. We found one dead skeleton of a beetle-big enough to bore the holes. There are many apple, pear, and walnut trees. The school is closed for break until July 19th so we still have time to get used to the time zone and daily life here in Thimphu.

Yesterday, we "hired" a car. Our neighbor's aunt has a car that she hires out. Of-course, I will have to learn to drive here-on the left side of the road with the shift on the left side as well. Everyone seems to be pretty confident in me driving here-except me. I haven't figured out the roads-most of them are one-way. I can already feel the urge to turn right and I'm not even driving yet. And apparently, my US license will work here? Can't imagine that.

My favorite thing about our new home is the outdoor garden. It is small but quaintly paved and is home to my favorite trees-deciduous magnolias. There are two magnolias outside our windows with huge deep lavender colored blossoms. These are the same trees that I special-ordered for our house in Seattle (one was destroyed by late-night college students). We also have an apple tree full of nearly ripe apples, a persimmon tree with very young fruit, pink rose bushes, red dahlias and wild-growing nasturtiums (we see them everywhere). This morning, a group of birds were eating aphids off the apple tree right outside our living room window.

Well, we must finalize our visas today-our entry ones expire tomorrow. Best to everyone:-)

Adventure to Taktsang

The day we arrived, Saturday June 26th, was a much-anticipated day. I had originally planned on staying in Paro two nights. The practical side of me thought that staying in a hotel with accommodations including a restaurant would help the kids and I transition into our new home abroad. Bhutan is the first country that Emma and Henry have been to outside of the US. So, I expected some "bumps" in the transition from microwaves, wi-fi, and fast food to who knows what kind of cooking situation we would have in our new cottage. Plus, I didn't want to have to shop and cook after three days of little sleep and multiple airplane rides. The buddhist and not-really-superstitious-but-why-push-my-luck side of me researched the auspicious days and inauspicious day lunar calendar. Saturday, June 26th, was the full moon day and a very auspicious day of the month. The following two days were very inauspicious days-specifically "not good days for making a new home." So, it seemed that Saturday was the "best" day to hike to Taktsang-plus I am eternally optimistic. We told our driver to pick us up at 10 am (we arrived at 7:30 am by plane from Bangkok). We changed clothes and climbed into the vehicle to drive to the trailhead-a twenty minute drive from the town of Paro. We stopped in town to get a box of bottled water. We parked in the small lot past the large farm houses on the road leading to the trail. As we got out of the land cruiser, Gobin, our driver said that he would take a piece of paper that he had used before for entry. I wasn't really sure what he meant and he didn't understand much English. We started up the trail. The trail is "UP" and up and up for two and half hours. The actual temple is about 9,000 or 10,000 ft-I don't recall the actual height. But we travelled from Seattle which is about sea level. No altitude acclimation, three days of traveling and all the preparations in Seattle that prevented much sleep or reflection combined lead to the point of me asking, "what was I thinking climbing to Taktsang today!" I felt like a foolish planner but was thrilled to be doing something outdoors and full of blessings immediately upon our arrival. Taktsang is one of the holiest sites for Tibetan Buddhism. Padmasambhava, who brought Buddhism to Tibet, rode on the back of the tigress (Yeshe Tsogyal) who flew up to the retreat cave on the cliff. We were probably one of the last groups to begin our hike up. I remembered that when I went to Taktsang last September the temple doors closed at 1pm. I had a sense of urgency but my legs did not want to move. I had to rest many times and was reminded of trekking in Tibet at 16,000 ft-no air and little energy. Emma and Henry seemed unaffected-they practically ran up the trail. Must be all those lacrosse practices and games. We made it to the half-way point where the restaurant is. Gobin went inside to arrange for our lunch on the way back down. We still had not eaten anything since our 1 am room service breakfast in Bangkok and the slightly appetizing food on the plane to Paro. Finally the trail leveled off and we began descending the granite steps that lead to the waterfall bridge and the extremely steep steps that go back up to the temple entrance. Hundreds of prayer flags hung across the cliffs and the waterfalls. Emma, Henry and Gobin were waiting for me as I climbed the last flights of stairs, passing Yeshe Tsogyal's hermitage and the signs warning about the vicious dog. We were the only western looking pilgrims and we received many smiles from passers by. At the check-in point, we had to hand over our electronics, cameras and phones-no pictures are allowed inside. The guard asked for our permit. I didn't even know that we needed one and realized what Gobin was talking about back at the car. Gobin talked to the guard in Dzongka without much success. It was clear that we had to have a permit. Then the guard asked me where I would be working. I mentioned the school where I will be teaching and then added a name of a person who I would also be working with on the non-profit project-a name that I knew would carry some weight (some of you will know who). The guard asked me for my hat, he wrote down my name and we entered. I was told later that no one is ever allowed to enter without a permit. We went into the first temple where the actual cave of Padmasambhava and Yeshe Tsogyal is. The entrance is covered in an ornately carved brass doorway. We received holy water, ribu, and blessing cords from the monk attendant at the cave. From there, we were able to go to all the temple, caves and springs within the complex. I brought prayer flags to hang and they were blessed by a lama at one of the caves and springs. In each temple, we did full prostrations and made offerings. In the last temple-the highest one in the complex, we were welcomed inside. There was the Jowo Buddha and a Lama doing pujas. After our prostrations he motioned for us to come over. He tied blessing cords around each of our necks, gave us the saffron water to drink and then blessed our heads with an original page from the Kangyur text-the sutras from during the time of Shakyamuni Buddha. I was amazed and grateful at our good fortune. We retreated out of the temple to find two westerners trying to talk their guide into letting them into the temple that we had just been in. Their argument was that they had come all this way. But the guide refused to let them enter. We saw them later in the restaurant. Clouds began covering the sky and we collected our things from the guide after drinking water from the Yeshe Tsogyal spring. Up, up the granite stairs that have no railing and no protection from the serious drop down the mountain. Luckily, Emma and Henry did not seem concerned in any way. We hung the prayer flags across the trail and thunder sounded. A storm was definitely close by. We made it back up to the main trail and began our descent to the restaurant. We took the short cut through the tress and fabulous views of the Taktsang temple. Thunder and lightning surrounded us and we made it safely to the restaurant where the cooks brought out a buffet of traditional Bhutanese foods for our first meal in Bhutan. We were hungry. As we ate, a small cat approached us and sat under the bench where we were. The rains came and began to pour outside the restaurant. Pouring as in "monsoon" pouring. The couple that we saw up at the temples came in with their guide. The guide looked at over at us with a smile. He was impressed with our prostrations in each temple and encouraged his charges to do the same. I went over to a woman who was eating with her guide. I asked if she was traveling alone. She had been traveling for twenty days from Southern California. It was her last day before heading home. She was very nice to meet. Our guide disappeared and we wondered if he left without us but that just didn't seem very likely. He showed back up at the restaurant and we were ready for our hike back down-in the monsoon rain. I couldn't believe that I had not brought rain jackets or umbrellas. I thought about it-but the sky was blue when we left our hotel (unprepared hiker). Luckily, my legs were happy to go down the red clay trails. Red clay just like Georgia. From experience I know how slippery red clay gets in the rain. We went as fast and as cautiously as possible. We watched the rain turn into a small stream into a full wet weather creek heading down the mountain. By the time we got back to the land cruiser, we were all four completely-I mean completely!-soaked. Thank god for waterproof Asolo hiking boots and water wicking shirts. But the kira skirt was heavy with rainwater and red clay splashes. I felt bad that we would soak Gobin's land cruiser but he seemed fine with a smile. We drove back to the hotel and happily changed into warm dry clothes. We slept and woke at 7 pm for dinner in the restaurant-we were the only guests. It rained all day the following day. So glad we didn't hike on Sunday. We did go to Kichu Lhakang on Sunday to make offerings and pay our respects. The National Museum was closed so we stayed at the hotel, slept, ate and watched Indi TV-episodes of Castle, Glee and Friends (which I despise). It continued to rain all day and all night. Monday morning the skies cleared to blue skies and the temperature was warm again. We loaded up the land cruiser for our one hour drive to Thimphu. On the road was land slide after land slide with boulders in the road from the rains on the previous day. Women were sweeping rocks and dirt off the winding road and cars took turns in the only lanes without mud and boulders. We arrived to Thimphu in 45 minutes. I guess the lunar calendar was pretty accurate after all and Saturday was in fact the best day to climb to Taktsang-what a great way to start our adventure in Bhutan.

We're not in Seattle anymore

I know I promised a blog about our hike up to Taktsang-that will follow shortly; but I just had to write about our first successful trash pick-up experience. When we moved into our new "cottage" I asked about where we put our garbage. Our very nice landlady said, "Oh, they will come by and you just take it out." Okay, I thought-when, what time, what if we aren't here? I asked what day and Ugyen said, "Oh, I don't know. They alternate days. They will honk when they arrive." So, after two days and quite a lot of garbage from our packing and Henry's x-box wrappings, I wondered about the garbage. The next morning (extremely early) I heard some honking. Later that morning, I figured that the honking must have been the garbage truck. That was three days ago-still lots of garbage. No trash can, no bags-just random boxes with refuse. So, this morning at 6:00 am I heard honking off in the distance. I looked out the window and saw a neighbor girl waiting at the road with a large bag of trash. I hurriedly gathered all of our boxes, emptied trash containers into our "compost" and piled about twenty empty plastic bottles into two cardboard boxes. Emma and I took our boxes out into a light mist and waited with our two neighbors. Eventually, we saw the truck back up into our little dead end spot. I watched as neighbors down the street handed their containers; the garbage collectors empty whatever was handed and then returned to the person on the street. Finally our turn arrived-we handed the person in the back of the truck our two boxes (we actually had three boxes but one was so collapsed that we combined it with another). The trash pick up person dumped out all three boxes and then cleaned them out and handed them back to us. I looked at the one box with the giant hole and the grease marks from our macaroni and cheese night and handed it back to him. He gave me that bobble of the head and took it after a long pause. I wonder what he thought I could do with the box. And we're not talking strong cardboard-we're talking about that really soft cardboard that practically melts when damp. All that compost and all those plastic bottles. A guilty conscience for a Seattleite. At least we have our cardboard to reuse.

Bangkok to Paro

Last Saturday we arrived to Paro, Bhutan, on the 5:50 am flight from Bangkok. We had a long layover in hot and humid Bangkok-just enough time to get some sleep and some pool time for the kids. We had high expectations of getting thai massages and eating at one of the hotel restaurants but after "resting" for a quick afternoon nap, we ended up waking at 1:00 am and ordering room service breakfast. We checked out at 3:00 am to head to the Druk Air counter where we checked in our 9 bags to Paro. Our small plane to Paro was comfortable and full of Bhutanese heading home with various electronics purchased in Bangkok. We read the Bhutanese newspapers and the Druk Air magazine which has Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche on the cover. We arrived early to Paro (about 2 and half hour flight) and exited the plane by stairs onto a large area that leads to the airport building that much resembles a Dzong or monastery. The immigration studied our visa and gave us a 14 day visa until we get the extensions in Thimphu-at a cost of $20 US each. But then we had to wait for a receipt. The officer instructed us to get our luggage and come back to the counter as someone would have to go to the offices to get another receipt book-they had run out. I asked if I could go outside to see if our ride was waiting. I actually had no idea who was picking us up. I was unable to get internet at Bangkok and not sure if my contact had in fact arranged for a driver. I was sure that she had-but still some doubt existed. No one was waiting for us. I returned to the kids and our 14 bags. After some time, the receipt book arrived and we each got our receipts. Emma and Henry had to go through the lines on their own. This was true in Taipei and Bangkok too-I guess that's high security. We took our carts our to the parking lot and luckily a driver, by the name of Gobin, had a piece of paper with " Madame Ashley Toney" on it. Henry helped load the bags into the Land Cruiser and we were on our way to the Hotel Olathang. The Paro valley is surrounded by high Himalayan hills covered in trees and sporadic Bhutanese houses. A few clouds decorated the hills but mostly blue sky greeted us into the valley. Later, Emma said that her eyes welled up with tears at the beauty. The valley is full of rice growing in bogs and the large three leveled houses-all painted white with ornately decorated trim representing buddhist symbols. We arrived at the hotel, the original hotel built in 1974 for the coronation of the third King. Our "cabin" is off to itself with one large sitting area and two separate rooms- each with a large bath. We decided to go to Taktsang that day. Gobin would drive us at 10:00 am-despite our three days of traveling. Next blog-the hike up to Taktsang.

First Blog June 15, 2010

In one week, we will be making last minute goodbyes and preparations for our year abroad in Bhutan. This week is full of meetings and filling ourselves with foods we may miss while in the land of chiles and red rice. Sunday, I hiked up Dry Creek with friends. Hopefully, this will help prepare for the hike up to Taktsang in Paro. We're hoping to hike to the cliffhanging temple on the day we arrive since it is the full moon day and an auspicious one according to Buddhists. Emma and Henry are finishing out their year at school. Counting down the days and hours...